ABOUT: Chris & Manuela departed San Francisco, California, on April 18th on their J-40 sloop to sail to the South Pacific and points west. We think we'll be sailing 2-3 years, and then return to our normal lives. ARCHIVES:   Tuesday, October 21, 2003   Dear Friends, How time has been flying. We have been in New Caledonia for just about 3 weeks now, and are already preparing for our final long passage this year - to Australia. But let me start at the beginning. A little over a month ago, we left Vava’u (Tonga) on a passage that in general was characterized by light air, as well as some trouble with our mainsail. The pin connecting one of the batten-pockets to its slug came loose. This in turn put additional stress on the slug below the batten, which consequently tore the luff (leading edge of the sail). So we dropped the main, hoisted a second headsail, and began the stitching process while wobbling down-wind. After a few hours, the repair was complete, and we continued on with the main. Alas, after a day and a half, it tore again, now to a good 1.5 feet. Not good. Once more, we dropped the main, and wondered how to repair this tear (just below the 3rd reef). Finally, we decided to give sailtape a try. According to our sailmaker, the secret to keeping sailtape attached without any stitching is to first truly scrub the sail with Acetone, or Alcohol if the former is not available. Using a heavy brush and half a quart/liter of Alcohol, we just about bathed the general repair area, before running sailtape from one side of the main around the luff back along the other side. This repair looked much better than the first, and managed to get us safely to New Caledonia. A good lesson to have learned. New Caledonia: of all the countries we have visited so far, New Caledonia has been the easiest, quickest, and cheapest (read free) country to check into. Truly a pleasure, especially after a longer passage. The harbor in Noumea (the capital and only checkin/checkout port) grants a free night in the marina, hot showers (a luxury) await, and anything the heart desires is available on land. However, the pricing is quite high, as nearly everything is imported directly from France, which still runs New Caledonia as a colony (over the objection of the majority of the indigenous Kanak people). Yet people are extremely friendly to us whites, even if at first approaching one with just a tad of caution, especially in the outlying areas. Impressive was the depth of the Kanak art, which was on display in the Centre Tjibaou, a cultural center and architectural delicacy built by France and named after an assassinated Kanak Independence leader. After enjoying the hot showers, fresh fruit & veggies, and having the mainsail permanently repaired by a sailmaker, we left Noumea for other anchorages around the south of New Caledonia. The Baie the Prony, heart of the original French penal colony, was our first stop. Barely populated, it is a place of stark beauty. Safe anchorages with good holding abound, and lots of hiking is possible on shore. After a few days of exploring, we rode a North Easterly south to the Isle de Pins, famous for its wonderful beaches. Lots of sucker fish, which belong to the Shark family, decided to hang around our boat (or literally attached themselves through a “sucking cup”). These fish are ‘harmless’, living largely off refuse, garbage, etc.. They won’t bite humans, but have on rare occasion attached themselves to one. Still, seeing a swarm of 2’-4’ long shark-like fish shooting at oneself does not encourage jumping into the water. We are now back in Noumea, and will shortly leave for Australia. For the first time, we are participating in a rally, which has been organized by the port of Bundaberg, 150 miles north of Brisbane on the Australian coast. Approximately 25 boats, including Legs Eleven, an Australian racer we know from Samoa, are taking part. It will be interesting to see if the daily ‘skeds’ (scheduled radio communications) will feel like fun or like a burden. Many sailors enjoy them for both their camaraderie and perceived increased in safety, while Manuela and I have so far felt that we’d prefer spending free time (time not on watch or working the boat) sleeping or resting instead of on the radio. Right now, it looks like really light winds, so it could take a while to cover the 780 miles. But since the first tropical depression (precursor to a hurricane) already formed and disappeared North of Vanuatu, it is starting to be time to get out of here. Take care….Chris & Manu Christoph 9:12 PM